Post Script: Laurine Murphy's Restaurant: "Another Popover, Miss?"

One of the childhood memories that John relayed to us during our tour of Long Island was going to Lauraine Murphy's restaurant with his grandparents.   This was a big deal!  It required getting all dressed up, and the food was truly 1950's Americana.  The children were expected to act like adults, and  for girls, the dress code was those full dresses with the stiff crinoline slips, tights and patent leather shoes.  I'm sure the boys wore  coats and ties.  The waiters treated the children like adults as well, making them feel "grown up", but nervous, because table manners were expected to be impeccable.  And everyone, including the grandparents talked to the children like adults.  Everyone in the restaurant was dressed up!  Minks, hats and gloves were not out of the question for grandparents, especially Nana Blake.   And of course, Dad Blake would have been in a suit.  

Maybe the most favorite things about Laurine Murphy's was the "popover girl", who would come to each table with an enormous basket with a linen napkin lining, filled with hot, fresh popovers.  She wore a gingham dress and would walk around the restaurant saying, "Popover?" and who could resist?  You could have as many as you wanted -- but only one at a time!  

For those of you who have not experienced a popover -- it's worth your while to seek them out!  There are special popover pans and mix you can buy, or you can make your own - there's a recipe attached here.  You can also make them in muffin tins, but the secret to a great popover is to warm the milk and warm the tin before pouring in the batter.  And make them in a very hot oven.

The pop over was very light and fluffy with a hollow center, just right for melted butter and your favorite jam.

Laurine Murphy had a more famous sister, Patricia Murphy, who had a number of restaurants called the Candlelight Restaurants and she wrote a cookbook called "Glow of Candlelight."  Her concept was probably a forerunner of a chain, but every child who remembers going to Patricia Murphy's thought it was the only one.  

I will include a menu here from Patricia Murphy's restaurant.  An original from Laurine Murphy's has proved to be elusive, but they were probably similar.  

And, here's a recipe, also from Patricia Murphy's, but I'm sure that, as sisters, they shared their secrets! 

PATRICIA MURPHY'S POPOVERS

PARAPHRASED FROM PATRICIA MURPHY'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY

The New York Daily News printed the recipe for their popovers in the September 26, 1984 edition of the paper.  This recipe makes 6 large or 9 small popovers.

Butter or pure vegetable shortening

1 cup sifted all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp salt

2 eggs

1 cup whole milk

1 Tbs sweet butter, melted

BEST IF YOU HAVE A POPOVER PAN, BUT A MUFFIN PAN WILL DO.

Put 1/3 tsp of butter or shortening in each cup in a 6 or 9 cup muffin pan or Popover Pan.  Put pan in preheated 450 degree oven for 5 minutes while making batter.

Sift flour and salt into a bowl.

Beat eggs with whisk, add milk and butter, and sift in flour, beating only enough to make a smooth batter.  Fill hot pans 1/3 full of the mixture. 

Bake for 30 minutes at 450 degrees, then reduce temperature to 350 degrees and bake 15 minutes longer or until firm, brown and popped.  Keep oven door closed while baking.

Serve warm from the oven.